Front End Parts and Cost

Well here is a breakdown of what parts I bought and where I got them. There are a few things I did not list here that I needed that may not need to be replaced on every build. Like I need to replace the hard brake line from the passenger side to the junction block below the master cylinder.

Part Number	Description	Place of Purchase	QNTY	Price
DBC5456F	54-56 Disc Brake Conversion	Jamco Suspension	1	$   529.95
MSTR010	Universal Master Cylinder - Raw	Jamco Suspension	1	$   165.95
MCBK01	Master Cylinder Bleed Kit	Jamco Suspension	1	$      3.95
DFK5464	54-64 Front Coil and Shock Kit        (3 inch drop)	Jamco Suspension	1	$   203.96
Upgrade	Upgrade Shock to Bilstein               (If you are lowering your car ask for shock part 55-R230)	Jamco Suspension	1	$   193.00
3049	Upper Ball Joint	Concours Parts	2	$   100.00
3050	Lower Ball Joint	Concours Parts	2	$   100.00
3073-K	Front Suspension Bushing Kit	Concours Parts	1	$     42.95
8A-3011	Insulator Front Spring	Concours Parts	2	$      9.90
B5A-3352-A	Idler Arm and Bushings	Concours Parts	1	$     34.95
8A-3A130	Tie Rod End	Concours Parts	2	$     30.00
AD-3280-B	Spindle Connecting Rod	Concours Parts	2	$     75.90
3310	Tie Rod Sleeve	Concours Parts	2	$     19.00
B4A-3021-K	UP&LWR Control Arm Bumpers	Concours Parts	1	$     29.95
ENS-9-5156G	Sway Bar bushing	Summit Racing	1	$     15.95
ENS-9-8117G	End Link Set	Summit Racing	1	$     15.39
RUS-657330	Brake Line Rotor to Hard Line	Summit Racing	2	$     51.90
PRF-80171	Brake Light Switch	Summit Racing	1	$     10.25
SSB-A1726	Adjustable Master Cylinder Pushrod	Summit Racing	1	$     53.95
813-1203	Hard Brake Line 8"	Napa	2	$     15.16
None	T-Adapter for Light Switch	Local Brake Store	1	$     10.75
None	Synthetic Brake Fluid	Kragen	1	$     12.00
None	Paint and Primer	Paint Store	1	$     23.60
		Total		$1,748.41

Master Cyclinder Rod Replacement

The following is how I replaced the master cylinder rod that attaches to the brake pedal and goes into the master cylinder. This is the kit I bought from Summit SUM-760125. However this is the part I got from them. After the installation was done I was asked for the part number I used I realized they gave me the wrong/right part. The part I got was SSB-A1726. Which is 10 dollars more. The kit comes with various was of creating the rod assembly to suit your needs. The way I put it together was as follows.

The threaded bolt threaded through large elongated nut into the eyelet. I then mounted the master cylinder to the car. I then put the rod assembly I created into the master cylinder from inside the car to see how it matched up with the opening in the brake pedal. It measured about 1/2 inch too long. So I used a dremel and cut a 1/4 inch off first and remeasured. Once I was sure another 1/4 inch needed to come off I cut again. At this point it was long enough and could be adjust in and out with the eccentric bolt. I then used the supplied nut to tighten down and lock the length of the rod in place. It came with 2 nylon washers. I could only use one because of how it fit back together. I used the eccentric washer to make sure I had a 1/4 inch of brake pedal play per the shop manual and tightened everything down.

Here is what comes in the kit:

Here is the before:

Here is the after:

Bearing Failure

I want to post a warning to all of you that purchase a disc brake kit. Even if they say it comes complete and you dont have to do anything to it. Please pull it apart and check to make sure the bearings are greased. I got bit by this last week and am now in talks with the company to get the parts replaced. So far they have taken responsibility for it and are working with me and have told me they are getting the parts together to send to me in the mail.

Here you can see the washer and rotor are not flush

These are what is left of the bearings

The spindle all ground up and what is left of the bearing housing

Suspension before and after

Here are some pictures of the front suspension before and after.

How to reinstall the front suspension

This was given to me by a fellow rodder. This goes over the front end build along with attaching everything back to the car.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

How to tear down the front suspension

The fist thing I would like to outline is how to remove the drum/spindle from the a-arms. This will work best especially if you plan on junking the old drum/spindle. I tried the ol-pickle fork routine and found this to be much easier.

1. Knock lug nuts loose, get the front end on jack stands and remove the tire.
2. Remove the cotter pins from the upper and lower ball joints along with one on the tie rod.
3. Remove the bolts from the tie rod and the upper and lower ball joints where it attaches to the spindle.
4. Knock the tie rod free from the lower a-arm.
5. Remove the bolt attached to the sway bar.
6. On the lower a-arm remove the nut attached to the lower bump stop, remove the bump stop and then replace the bump stop so it will come out easily again.
7. Remove the nuts attached to the two bolts on the lower ball joint. You will not be able to remove the bolts at this point. The spindle is in the way.
8. Place the floor jack under the lower a-arm and jack it up just enough to support the lower a-arm.
9. Remove the two nuts and bolts from the upper a-arm
10. Remove the upper bump stop. You will need to jack up the floor jack to give you enough space to remove the bump stop. Lower the jack stand back down to where it was in step 8
11. Pull on the upper ball joint to remove it from the a-arm and tilt the drum/spindle forward.
12. You will see that there is enough room to knock out the two bolts on the lower ball joint
13. Once the bolts are removed then pull the lower bump stop out while support the drum/spindle. Then pull the drum/spindle towards you and free from the lower a-arm
14. Carefully unbolt and remove the two bolts holding the shock in place at the bottom.
15. Remove the upper bolt from the shock and drop it down and remove it
16. Standing in front of the car slowly lower the a-arm until the floor jack is all of the way down.
17. If the spring still has some pressure to it. Take the floor jack and raise the front of the car up some more. You will be able to raise it enough to re-leave all of the pressure on the spring and be able to safely remove it.
18. Remove the two bolts on the lower a-arms on the inside.
19. Knock the bolt free on the side closest to the bumper of the car.
20. You can know remove the lower a-arm. Leave the other bolt in place. It is a pain to get out and then replace.
21. Open up the hood.
22. On the upper a-arm you will see a cross bar attached to the frame with two nuts on the outside of the a-arm. Remove those nuts first.
23. Remove the bolts from the cross bar attaching it to the frame. you can know remove the upper a-arm

There you have it the easiest way I have found to disassemble the front suspension on these 54 Fords.